A smart silver Nissan 180sx Sil80 conversion
I would like to share with you David Ortega Olesen’s beautifully built Nissan 180sx Sil80 conversion. David hails from Denmark and put this car together himself. David is a serious s13 chassis fan with a history of over ten previous s13’s he also currently has a dedicated 180sx drift car that I would love to share with you. This Sil80 is David’s street legal car and so the focus of the build was on daily usability and engine response – no crazy turbos or engine swaps. Power is upped circa 30bhp over standard while aero upgrades update the look of the car, wheels and suspension tighten up the handling. Nissan 180sx Sil80 full specification Make & model: Nissan 180sx Sil80 conversion Model year: 1993 Engine: Sr20det Redtop Turbo: T25 Drivetrain – Sr20det redtop – Blitz Intercooler kit – Greddy Hardpipe intercooler pipes – D1 spec Radiator cap – Driftworks Oil cap – 255 L/H fuelpump – HKS Fuelcut defender – HKS Airfilterkit – 2.5″ decat pipe – 2.5″ front pipe – 3″ Hyper Medallion catback exhaust Power rated at circa 230bhp @ 0.5 bar Wheels & tyres – Wheels Tenzo DC-5 painted Black in 17″ – Tyres Continental Sport Contact 5i 205/40/17 Suspension – Ride height lowered aprox 55 mm – Cusco adjustable front top Bearing mounts – Uras justerbar tension rods – RS-R strutbrace front – APEX strutbrace rear – LSD Bodywork – Complete Silvia PS13 front end conversion – URAS Monkey Magic bodykit – HID “Crystal” rear lights – Carbon wing on custom mounts – SPARCO / SABELT 4 point seatbelt – SPARCO Sprint Seat – MOMO race steeringwheel – Snap on key – Drift button handbrake – Battery mounted in car Thank you David for sharing your Sil80 with us! If you like this car or want to ask David anything about the build please feel free to drop a comment below!
FREE sticker giveaway!
FREE sticker giveaway: Hey 180sx fans! Please take our survey and ten lucky winners will receive our brand new 180sx Club stickers for FREE. Slap em on your ride and if you send us some pics of where you put them, we might send you some more! 🙂 http://buff.ly/1TvVYhk
Scorching red Nissan 180sx drift car from New Zealand
Welcome to Shane Windley’s New Zealand based Nissan RPS13 180sx build. Shane bought this car bone stock and Ca18det powered from an old lady and he built it up over eight years into the bad ass drift car you see before you. The RPS13 has always been well suited to the role of reliable and performant drift car, with hundreds of examples tuned and customised over the last two decades for this purpose. With this build Shane has chosen a mixture of choice parts from different premium Japanese tuning brands including Origin Labo aero and WORK Emotion wheels. This 180sx was equipped from the factory with a potent but often fragile Ca18det, Shane opted to replace it with the venerable SR20det. This 180sx car is fully street legal in New Zealand and features many unique touches that compliment the overall look. We love this car – well done Shane and thank you for sharing your car with us! If you want to drive a car like Shane’s 180sx, check out smartdrivinggames.com. Photo credits to Beast Mode, Devolution Photography, Madmax Photography and Mossy Photography.
How To Import A JDM Car
Have you ever wondered how to import a clean or original JDM car from Japan? Do you dream of sitting behind the wheel of an unspoiled Nissan 180sx? Nissan PS13 or Nissan Sil80? Do you want the kudos of showing up at your next meet in a car that has never been seen in your country before? If you answer ‘yes’ to any of the above then read on to see exactly how you can import your own JDM car with all the steps and costs broken down along the way. This is a guide for importing a Nissan JDM 180sx, PS13 or Sil80 directly from Japan. The guide was written by Samoht, thanks for sharing. I recently imported a 1994 180SX from auction in Japan. When I began the process, I couldn’t find anywhere with a comprehensive overall guide, explaining the whole process from start to end. Now I’ve got the car on the road, I thought I’d write one, to give an idea what is involved, and hopefully help anyone doing it to avoid unnecessary delays and frustration. Looking for your first JDM car to import? Drifted’s 11 Best JDM Cars Of The Nineties article should point you in the right direction. Getting started in drifting? Try their 9 Best Drift Cars For Beginners article. Parties involved * Auction house: Produces report sheets and grades vehicles. * Exporter in Japan: Publishes report sheets on web. Provides customers with estimated guide prices, and assists with explanation of auction report sheets. Accepts bids from customers, inspects vehicles at auction, and if in satisfactory condition, bids up to the customer’s maximum bid. where successful, purchases car and arranges for it to be shipped to the UK. * Customs agent: Pays customs charges and bills customer. Arranges clearance from port. Advises customer on when and where to collect their car * Shipping company: Transports car from port in Japan to port in UK. Collects shipping cost from customer (as bankers draft) when they collect their car from the UK port. * HMRC (Customs): Charges just under 30% of shipped cost of the car as import tax and VAT. Issues form 386 to customer to show that tax has been paid. * Garage: Tests car and produces MOT pass certificate * DVLA: Provides registration application form V55. On receipt of all required documents showing car has been legally imported from Japan, taxes paid, and MOT’d, issues registration certificate. Charges £50 plus the cost of first year road tax (£180) for this. Timeline 01-Oct Send deposit 05-Oct Deposit received, start browsing 11-Oct Place first bid at mid-point of estimated range. Does not reach reserve. 15-Oct Place two more bids, one at top of estimated range. 16-Oct One car was rusty, so the agent did not bid. The other car was won, at £100 above my bid. 16-Oct Send balance of payment 11-Nov Car leaves Japan on ship, bound for Southampton 26-Dec Ship arrives in Southampton. Port is closed for Christmas. 27-Dec Ring around and … [Read More]
How To Fit S13 Coilovers
This is a guide for how to fit brand new coilover suspension to the Nissan 180sx / 200sx / 240sx. Suitable applications for this guide: – Nissan 180sx (s13 jdm) – Nissan 200sx (s13) – Nissan 240sx (s13 usdm) – Nissan 200sx (s14) – Nissan Silvia (s14 jdm) Disclaimer Please note that following this guide is entirely at your own risk. The 180sx Club is not responsible for any personal injury to you or to a third party and neither is it responsible for any damage done to your vehicle while attempting to follow this guide. The 180sx Club provide these workshop guides for experienced mechanics to use, if you are not confident that you have the correct skills then please take your vehicle to your favourite professional garage to complete the work. Most imported Nissan 180sx and Nissan Silvia s13’s will have already been fitted with a set of aftermarket coilover suspension. From talking to many owners of these imports it seems quite common for the coilovers to be poorly suited to our lesser quality roads, so replacing them becomes a priority. I found that my own car’s JIC Magic coilovers were leaking and not compressing properly, so I felt it was time to change to a replacement set. I have written this guide to help other owners get through this job as quickly as possible. Feel free to add comments. What will you need? – Socket set – Breaker bar – Impact gun – Axle stands – Wheel chocks – Hammer – 2 x Trolley jack – Replacement set of coilovers Instructions We decided to start with the rear suspension first. – Jack your car up from the rear We chose to use the hefty rear differential as the jacking point. – Brace the car Put the axle stands on the inner chassis rails (or anywhere hefty) and put the wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. – Pop your boot and look at the rear strut towers. If you have a rear strut bar then you must remove this, then undo the two 12mm nuts holding the top of the coilover in place. Slacken off most of the pressure from the 12mm nuts, but leave them with a few rungs of screws still exposed so they are supported from the top. – Go under the rear arch and locate the bottom of the strut. It is secured by a 17mm (?) bolt, this will need to be hammered by the impact gun so go grab yours and give the bolt the good news over and over until it starts spinning on the thread. Now use a heavy duty ratchet or breaker bar to work the nut off. I love the noise of impact guns early in the morning.. – Remove the two loosened 12mm nuts from the top and extract the entire strut assembly. Wiggle it around until it clears the varies holes then you should be able to remove it fairly simply. – Inspect your … [Read More]
SR20DET Oil Change Guide
Hey guys here is a step by step idiot’s guide to performing an oil and filter change on the Nissan Sr20det engine. I did this example on my 1994 jdm s13 180sx. Suitable applications for this guide: – Nissan 180sx (jdm s13) – Nissan 200sx (s14) Disclaimer Please note that following this guide is entirely at your own risk. The 180sx Club is not responsible for any personal injury to you or to a third party and neither is it responsible for any damage done to your vehicle while attempting to follow this guide. The 180sx Club provide these workshop guides for experienced mechanics to use, if you are not confident that you have the correct skills then please take your vehicle to your favourite professional garage to complete the work. What will you need? Socket set Genuine Nissan Sr20det replacement oil filter 4/5 litres of fully synthetic oil of your choice (I went for Halfords 5w-50 fully synth) Some kind of oil collector (I bought a £5 Halfords can) Oil filter removal tool Trolley jack Instructions – Jack your car up from the front I drove onto bricks as my bumper is too low, and I used the big crossmember behind the engine to use as a jacking point. – Undo the sump plug and put the oil collector below where it spills to catch your used oil The Sr20det sump plug bolt is 14mm, be carefully not to thread this when you undo it as it will cause you some problems if you do! – Drain your engine of all of its used oil Consider jacking it down to get every last bit out of the engine – Refit your sump plug Do it up tight but do not over tight. Be careful not to thread! – Remove the oil filter The oil filter is located directly underneath the inlet manifold. This is very hard to get access so use the oil filter removal tool that you purchased from Halfords or borrowed from your mate. Use the tool attached to a strong ratchet as pictured below and unscrew the oil filter. All you need to do is break the seal and then you can unscrew it by hand. Make sure a tray or something is underneath the oil filter on the ground so you’don’t stain your friends driveway like I did. – Attach your new oil filter This is very straight-forward just smear some fresh oil over the connecting face of the filter and then screw it into place on the side of the block. Do it up hand tight but no more. – Unscrew the oil cap on the rocker cover and put in approx 3 litres of the new oil into the engine. Let this settle and take at least 3 readings of the level from the dipstick. Top up until you are just under ‘max’ Be sure to try not to spill any oil onto your rocker cover. – Be sure all caps are sealed, … [Read More]