DIY Nissan climate control unit guide
Here is a detailed guide on how to diagnose problems with the Nissan 180sx and Nissan Silvia digital climate control unit. Suitable applications for this guide: – Nissan 180sx (jdm s13) – Nissan Silvia (s14 jdm) Disclaimer Please note that following this guide is entirely at your own risk. The 180sx Club is not responsible for any personal injury to you or to a third party and neither is it responsible for any damage done to your vehicle while attempting to follow this guide. The 180sx Club provide these workshop guides for experienced mechanics to use, if you are not confident that you have the correct skills then please take your vehicle to your favourite professional garage to complete the work. Ok… From what I can gather, this is the same for S13 JDM unit, and for S14 (not S14a AFAIK, but possibly works the same also). To “self diagnose” the Auto Temperature Controlled Air con/heating systems: There are 6 stages of diagnosis…! To enter stage/mode 1, the first point is to turn ignition to ‘on’, and within 5 seconds of doing this, you press and hold the “OFF” button on the heater control unit, for 5 seconds… The instructions are not 100% clear that it may need the engine to be started. Although I doubt this is the case. 1st thing to happen should be that all the LEDS and display segments will illuminate… lots of 8’s I guess, unless its a starburst type = lots of stars! If the elements don’t light up at this point, the off switch is malfunctioning… if some of the other lights/segments dont light up, then theres a problem with either some of the bulbs, or the fluorescent display tube. If you then press the ‘up’ arrowed button (hot), the display should then read ‘2’, which indicates the 2nd stage of the diagnosis. Pressing the ‘down’ arrow (cold) button will go from mode 2 – 1, and pressing the up arrow will go from mode 1 – 2. Now unless the down arrow button isn’t working, you should see the number 2. This is mode/stage 2. You may then see the number 20 displayed, which means that all external sensors are working correctly. You may find it reads number 21, 22, 25, or 26… this indicates a malfunctioning or incorrectly wired sensor. The codes are: 20 = All ok. 21 = Ambient Sensor. 22 = In-Vehicle Sensor. 25 = Sunload Sensor. 26 = PBR (Air-mix Door Position Sensor) Pressing the ‘up’ arrow (hot) button again will move to mode 3 = number 3 is displayed. Mode 3 again, like mode 2, will throw up error codes (if any present) or code 30 = all ok. Error codes in mode 3 are for checking all the intake door motor and mode door position switches for error/malfunction, these are the possible error codes: Note: Codes 31-35 refer to ‘mode door’ motor positions. Codes 36-39 refer to ‘Intake Door’ motor positions. 30 = All ok. 31 … [Read More]
How To Fit Wheel Spacers
Hey guys I have been meaning to write this spacer fitting guide for a while so here it is! I bought a 15mm spacer kit from Ultralite to fit to my 180sx – my front wheels were hitting my calipers so spacers were needed. You can pick yourself up a pair of premium quality wheel spacers from our affiliate partner here: Buy TPI Forged Wheel Spacers from Enjuku Racing. Suitable applications for this guide: – Nissan 180sx (s13 jdm) – Nissan 200sx (s13) – Nissan 240sx (s13 usdm) – Nissan 200sx (s14) – Nissan Silvia (s14 jdm) Disclaimer Please note that following this guide is entirely at your own risk. The 180sx Club is not responsible for any personal injury to you or to a third party and neither is it responsible for any damage done to your vehicle while attempting to follow this guide. The 180sx Club provide these workshop guides for experienced mechanics to use, if you are not confident that you have the correct skills then please take your vehicle to your favourite professional garage to complete the work. Wheel spacers displayed above without studs. Right let’s crack on – jack your car up and remove both the wheels. Remember to be safe and use axle stands and chock the wheels just in case. Find a decent hammer (preferably with a heavy head which mine did not have) and start bashing out the stock wheel studs. There is a hole at the back of the brake disc guard, rotate the hub and if you shine a torch at the back you will see it. When you knock a stud out wriggle your fingers around in here and pull that sucker out. It’s a little tricky at first but I was doing it quite easily after the third stud. We decided to do this in the middle of the night so a towel is recommended to suppress noise.. Ah fantastic the studs are all out! Win! Let’s take a closer look at the stock wheel stud compared to the extended Ultralite stud that is included in the spacer kit. To replace the longer studs you need to line up the stud holes on the hub with the gap in the back of the disc guard (we mentioned earlier) and thread the stud in. I did this by shining a torch through the hole in the guard and looking at it from the front. This is a little fiddly but with some patience you will get there. Now all of the new studs are sat in the correct holes we need to use an open ended nut and your wheel brace to tighten those things on there. I did mine *real* tight just to be sure. Remember when the wheels are bolted on they will tighten the studs even further. Slip your spacer on 🙂 Easy! I completed this within two hours in the dark when I was way too tired, under the right conditions and with this handy … [Read More]
Nissan 180sx Vertex and Dai Chan Mazda RX7 FC3S
Download our Nissan 180sx Vertex and Dai Chan Mazda RX7 FC A friend of mine owned Dai Chan’s stunning yellow Mazda RX7 FC3S. We posed it with my 180sx for some photos taken by Morfed.net. Just hit the link above to download it. Here is the man himself and a few pics of the car while it was in Japan.